What my Scout has now:

• 304V8 w/ 63k miles
• Stock bench seat up front w/ shot springs
• 3spd that needs replaced
• Dana 20
• Dana 30 front end, 3.73, shot drum brakes
• Dana 44 rear, 3.73, needs drums turned
• Manual steering and manual brakes
• Giddum Up Scout 4-point repro factory truck (roll) bar
• Of course, a few stereo components and a CB and such..

Sitting in my garage, waiting for my Scout:

• Extra Dana 20
• Dana 44 3.73 front axle w/ AUTOMATIC hubs
• Power brake booster, disc/drum master cylinder, and proportioning valve
• Power Steering box and pump
• Smittybilt Front Roll Cage Kit
• New Dash and dash pad (needed the pad, extra dash is just extra)
• Stock Scout II bucket seat bases and some nice buckets from an '83 Pontiac 2000 - they tip far forward (2 door), recline to lay down, and have sliders so I can adjust 'em.

• Twin Stick shifters from a Dana 18
• Close ratio T19 4spd
• SSII Mirrors
• A/C pump mounting bracket
• Left and right front body mounts
• Lockright locker for the front and rear end
• New RS5000 shocks
• New front driveline & CV Yoke for the t'case
• New rear driveline & CV Yoke for the t'case
• Warn Full Floater kit for the rear Dana 44, combined with disc brakes
• Tera Mfg 3-1 lower gears for the transfer case.. that is, unless I figure out something better..
• 33 gallon fuel tank(?)
• Stereo components, car alarm.. heh

Now that we have the stage set.. here's my plan:

1. Remove the seats (done - 4/16/98)
2. Remove the rollbar
3. Remove the factory rubber matting / sound deadening floor material
4. Remove fan shroud
5. Disconnect the ignition harness, steering column, gas line, and anything else that connects from the body to the frame
6. Unbolt the 8 body mount bolts
7. Lift the body a bit, so there's room between it and the frame
8. Grind out the rusty parts of the floor and front body mounts
9. Weld in replacement steel
10. Remove the doors
11. Lift the body off of the frame
12. Flat tow the frame to a local welder to have the front reverse shackle "towers" welded on, some mounts for a rear 4-link suspension, drill and "sleeve" two holes on either side of the frame, near where the old rear spring mount is.. inside diameter should be 1/2"
13. Add some cargo storage compartments in the areas between the innder bed tub and the outer rear quarter panels
14. Install 3.5" or 4" mid-range speakers in the kick-panel area up front
15. Sand the entire interior of the body tub, primer it, then Durabak it
16. Sand what I can of the underside of the body tub, then primer, then Durabak
17. Durabak the lower edge of the body - where the stock trim would be, and then down - this will avoid nicking any paint in the future
18. Remove engine/tranny/transfer case from the frame (skip this?)
19. Remove axles, shackles, manual steering box
20. Grind off stock front shock mounts, drill holes to use Jeep CJ bolt-on higher front shock mounts - 2 per side
21. Sand blast the frame
22. Clean the frame with Acetone
23. Paint the frame with POR15
24. Re-install the 304V8, with the T19 and Dana 20 from the garage
25. Re-install the body onto the frame with new body bushings, new body bolts, and one inch spacers (1" body lift)
26. Bolt a StrateSteer and the power steering gear box onto the frame
27. Attach the steering column
28. Re-install the doors
29. Re-fit the 4pt GUS rollbar, and add in the Smittybilt front rollcage.
30. Remove the cage, have a professional do the finish weld, then primer and Durabak the rollcage
31. Install roll-cage
32. Install the rear bench seat (sand blast, paint, & Durabak the under-side rear bench seat mounting bracket)
33. Install front bucket seat bases
34. Install an 8" Subwoofer in the passenger seat base
35. Install 10-disc Sony CD-changer inside the driver's bucket seat base - or, install in a Tuffy console
36. Install some tweeters in the upper corners of either the rollcage, or the windshield frame
37. Install bucket seats
38. Trim the glovebox edge, and relocate the headlight switch and e-brake release to clear the front feet of the rollcage
39. Install the power brake booster and disc/drum brake mastercylinder and proportioning valve
40. Remove the rear springs, and replace all bushings
41. Place rear axle under the springs (springs-over-axle), and measure amount of rotation needed for a CV rear driveshaft
42. Have a professional welder move the spring perches to the top of the axle at the appropriate angle
43. Have the welder add the 4-link mounts to the axle as well
44. Welder will also add 2 shock mounts per side, along the axle tube
45. Install an 8" longer rear brake line
46. Locate and install a Ford front Reverse Cut Dana 44 diff cover - with a higher fill plug
47. Add a bracket to the old shock upper rear shock mounts to relocate the upper shock mounts up one inch - make accomodations for dual shocks
48. Cut one extra rear spring pack in half, drill two 1/2" holes in the ends of the main leafs. Install these springs under the frame on the front, to be my rear buggy leaf spring mount for the reverse shackle front end
49. Install the stock front springs (with new bushings), using the front spring "tower" and the new buggy spring rear mount
50. Position front axle under the springs, and make measurements for axle rotation for front CV-joint driveshaft
51. Disassemble front axle
52. Grind welds
53. Rotate the axle the proper amount for the CV 'shaft, and 4 to 6 degrees of caster
54. Have a professional re-weld the knuckles
55. Grind a new perch into the passenger side diff webbing, at the appropriate angle
56. Have a professional relocate the driver's side spring perch to the top of the axle tube at the appropriate angle
57. Add shock mounts in an appropriate position
58. Install the new front Dana 44 under the springs
59. Test the suspension articulation - measure for front brake lines, front shocks, and front driveshaft - along with rear shocks and 'shaft
60. Order 4 shocks, and the rear driveshaft
61. Order the front driveshaft(when $$$ allows)

At this point, the truck will be in a perfectly driveable condition. Other items I plan to do by or at this point, would be:

• On-board air, with one or 2 6"x24" air tanks mounted between the frame rails under the cargo area
• 33gal gas tank
• Extra batteries - one under the hood (passenger inner fender - stock jack location), and two or three under the bed (Optimas)
• Tera Mfg 3:1 low for the Dana 20, along with a rebuild
• MSD Ignition upgrade
• Stereo update - new headunit, and a 400w amp
• Car alarm w/ remote pager
• 33x12.5" BFG MTs
• Warn Dana 44 Full Floater rear kit, with disc brakes
• Lockright lockers front and rear

-Tom
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